The Charente takes its time. Vineyards stretch to the horizon, the river glides between golden stone buildings. From Cognac to Angoulême, via Saintes and the thermal waters of Jonzac, this journey follows a simple thread: slow down, feel, taste.
Five days to discover a region that is both discreet and generous, revealing its finest treasures to those who are not in a hurry. And to stay true to this spirit of slow travel, everything can be done by train and gentle mobility.
Stepping into the world of Cognac, from major houses to independent producers
Following the Charente on foot or by traditional riverboat between Cognac and Saintes
Relaxing in the warm waters of the Antilles de Jonzac. a true breathing space at the heart of the trip
Ending on a creative note in Angoulême, between murals and the Comic Book Museum
Day 1
Cognac
A blend of oak, alcohol and damp air that fills the neighbourhood of the ageing cellars. This is the famous “angel’s share”, the portion that evaporates from the barrels each year. In Cognac, even the air is infused with flavour 😉.
Morning Walk from the station to the Charente riverbanks. Reflections ripple on the calm water, boats barely move. Along the way, former warehouses appear, blackened by the cognac fungus — a microscopic mould that feeds on alcohol vapours and has coloured cellar walls for centuries. The old town then unfolds, with its discreet townhouses, winding streets climbing towards the château and hidden inner courtyards.
Afternoon & Evening The afternoon is dedicated to discovering cognac craftsmanship. Choose between a museum or a visit to a trading house. Learn how blends are created, how to read a label, and why time is the true raw material here. The experience is sensory, fluid, never overly technical — and the final tasting leaves you wanting to know more. If the season allows, don’t miss a boat ride on the Charente, departing from Cognac. From the water, the cellars take on a new dimension as the river slowly changes colour with the setting sun.
Discover Maison Martell from a different perspective — its rooftop overlooking the Charente. Settle in at the end of the day with a cocktail in hand as the light fades over the riverbanks and ageing cellars. An elegant and relaxed moment in one of the destination’s iconic houses.
Morning Visit one of the major houses — Rémy Martin, Hennessy, Camus, Martell… — depending on your preference. Walk through the cellars, breathe in the scent of aged wood and spirits, and listen to stories and anecdotes. In winter, you can even witness the magic of distillation — through visits, special meals around the still, or seasonal events.
Afternoon & Evening Because Cognac is also a landscape, shift scale and head out into the vineyards. The region is divided into six crus (Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies, Fins Bois, Bons Bois and Bois Ordinaires), each defined by limestone soils that shape the character of the eaux-de-vie. Head towards the small roads between Cognac and Segonzac, at the heart of Grande Champagne. By bike or on foot, move between low vines, dry-stone walls and discreet distilleries with gleaming copper stills. At an independent producer’s, tastings are more personal, often shared around a farmhouse table.
End the day by the river or on a terrace with a local cocktail. No strict plan, just the desire to soak up the Charente atmosphere.
Around Cognac, cycling feels natural: quiet roads, gentle landscapes, vineyards stretching as far as the eye can see. Within minutes, you leave the town behind and find yourself immersed in the scenery.
Just 30 minutes by train from Cognac, the setting changes. Saintes carries two thousand years of history, visible in its stone, its streets and its architecture.
Morning From the station, walk towards the Charente and discover the Arch of Germanicus, standing proudly by the river. Fifteen metres high, with still-legible Latin inscriptions — a striking introduction to the city. Nearby, the Gallo-Roman amphitheatre, one of the best preserved in France, invites quiet contemplation. Stone seating, grassy arena, remarkable acoustics.
Afternoon & Evening The Abbaye aux Dames offers a different experience: behind its Romanesque façade lies a vibrant cultural space. Explore it with 3D audio headphones — voices, music and storytelling accompany your visit. In the courtyard, the Musical Carousel invites you to play giant instruments together for a spontaneous symphony. Unexpected and memorable.
By late afternoon, the city slows down. You leave not with the feeling of having “visited”, but of having simply enjoyed your time.
Did you know that Charentaise slippers, these traditional and comfortable house shoes, are protected by a Geographical Indication? This stay is also a great opportunity to visit local craft workshops — and, of course, to sample regional specialities such as melon, cheeses and sweet treats.
Day 4
Jonzac
Jonzac, a small town in Haute-Saintonge, hides a rare resource beneath its surface: naturally warm thermal water rising from deep underground.
Morning Arrive by train via Saintes. The medieval château overlooks the town, the streets are peaceful, and the Seugne River flows quietly below. Take time to explore. Perhaps even visit one of the historic mills.
Afternoon & Evening Then, a change of scenery: welcome to the Antilles de Jonzac. Beneath a vast tropical glass dome, 38°C water is surrounded by lush vegetation, palm trees and soft light. Move from pool to pool (relaxation areas, bubbling baths, counter-current river) without watching the time. This is not just a pool, but a true moment of disconnection. Staying overnight in Jonzac is recommended for a more relaxed experience.
Morning Climb up to the upper town from the station. Ramparts open onto sweeping views over the Charente Valley. The Saint-Pierre Cathedral, a masterpiece of Romanesque art, is worth a visit. Its sculpted façade reads like a storybook. The city itself feels like an open-air book. More than twenty large-scale murals bring comic book characters to life across the city. A playful exploration through its streets.
Afternoon Continue at the International City of Comics and Image, housed in former warehouses along the river. Original artwork, immersive exhibitions and creative processes, even non-enthusiasts are quickly drawn in.
The trip ends here, with the feeling of having explored a region in depth, from the aromas of Cognac to the images of comics, from river landscapes to thermal waters.
In the Charente, certain events truly shape the atmosphere of the destination. In Angoulême, the International Comics Festival draws enthusiasts and curious visitors every winter, while in Cognac, events such as Blues Passions or the Cognac Festival bring the city to life with music and tastings. Be sure to check what’s on during your stay!
Set along the banks of the Charente, just a short walk from the town centre, Quai des Pontis offers a variety of accommodation options: hotel rooms, wooden cabins, caravans and lodges scattered throughout a leafy garden. A place apart, between nature and city, where you can choose both your pace and your setting.
Cognac houses often sell out in summer. Book your visit online a few days in advance..
The Segonzac vineyards are easy to explore by bike. Electric bikes are widely available.
L’Abbaye aux Dames hosts concerts throughout the year, ranging from Baroque to contemporary music. Check the programme before your stay. An evening in the nave can turn a stopover into an unforgettable experience
Here are some practical answers to the most common questions, to help you plan your stay with ease and confidence.
Spring and early autumn offer the best light and fewer crowds. Summer requires advance booking for cognac houses.
Yes, entirely. Angoulême, Cognac and Saintes are all on the same train line (TER: Regional Express Train), and Jonzac is 1½ hours from Cognac.
Not at all. The journey is about landscapes, culture and lifestyle as much as it is about the spirit itself.
Rates
indicative budget
(Based on 2 people)
From €680 to €850 (2 adults)
the price includes
4 nights in Guesthouse
Cognac House ans Museum
Abbaye aux Dames
Antilles de Jonzac
Angoulême City of Comics and Image
Local train travel
The price does not include
International transport to/from your destination
Travel other than by train
Meals
Optional guided tours
Personal expenses and travel insurance
💡 The total budget may vary depending on the season, accommodation category and availability of guided activities. Travelling outside peak summer periods generally allows for a more comfortable budget and a quieter experience.
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